Consumer understanding of products is driving the development of the personal care industry, and ingredient transparency is rapidly becoming an unquestionable element in purchasing cosmetic formulas. The conscious beauty movement is driving this transformation, whether it is choosing products that are suitable for vegetarianism and zero cruelty, or eco-friendly and sustainable products, consumers can decide to purchase beauty products based on their personal values. The key is that consumers receive the information they need and are able to make informed decisions that meet their needs.

This is particularly important when using ingredients such as sulfates in cosmetic formulas. For many years, ingredients such as sulfates have been portrayed in a negative image with some negative connotations. But why are these ingredients demonized in the minds of consumers, and what is the truth behind these misunderstandings? In the next issue of"a; Crush rumors; In the series, I invited some formula and regulatory experts from Heda to help eliminate common false statements related to the use of sulfates in the personal care industry.

But first, let's learn more about sulfates and their usage in cosmetic formulas

What are sulfates and what are their uses?

Sulfates are a type of anionic surfactant commonly used as detergents in cosmetic formulations, such as facial cleansers, shampoo, and shower gel. The most common types of ingredients in personal care applications are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLES). SLES has undergone chemical modification and is a mild alternative to SLS, but due to their association with sulfates, it is still considered an overly strong surfactant in the eyes of consumers. The main function of SLS and SLES is to effectively clean hair and skin, and they have excellent foaming performance, making them popular ingredients in cleaning formulas.

Why is sulfate not well-known?

For many years, sulfates have been used in the personal care industry and are very safe, but for some reasons, consumers have had a negative view of them. The function of sulfates is to clean hair and skin, but sometimes their effect is too effective. They can not only remove dirt, but also remove natural oils from hair and skin. This may be considered excessive for certain types of hair“harsh“,Or may irritate sensitive skin.

However, the key is to acknowledge that sulfate based ingredients provide many benefits in cosmetic formulas. As I mentioned earlier, they are effective cleaning agents with excellent foaming properties and a certain degree of thickening effect. They are cost-effective ingredients, usually light in color and with a small odor, making them very easy to prepare into various products. So, if sulfate is not used, there is currently no direct alternative. On the contrary, it is usually necessary to combine different chemical components to achieve the same effect as sulfates. This is a tricky problem for cosmetic formulators.

We have gained a better understanding of the background of sulfates and their applications in the personal care industry. Now let's take a look at some common false statements

Misconception 1- Sulfate based cleaning agents are too strong?, Can make hair and skin dry

More and more people believe that the cleaning ability of sulfate facial cleanser is too strong, which easily makes hair dry and brittle, causing irritation. This is usually caused by sulfates removing natural oils from hair and skin surfaces. Indeed, sulfates are highly effective cleaning agents that remove natural oils, dust, and dirt - after all, that's what they do! That's why it's necessary to take care of hair and moisturize the skin after cleaning to replenish natural oils. However, all cleaning agents will strip hair and skin surfaces, not just sulfates.
It is generally believed that sulfates such as SLS and SLES are more effective than other surfactants“strong”,This is because they have anionic properties, which means they have a negatively charged hydrophilic head group. Their hydrophobic tail groups are adsorbed by dirt on the surface of hair or skin and arranged to form micelles, trapping dirt inside and then washed off with water, as shown in the following figure. Hair and skin also carry negative charges, and the anionic surfactant structure of sulfates is excluded from the surface. Due to the hydrophilic (water loving) head groups of the cleaning agent molecules, it is this mechanism that makes these components very effective cleaning agents. 

This does not mean that all sulfate cleaning agents are inherently strong, nor does it require the use of sulfates. We can use multiple formulas to reduce its irritation and potential irritation while maintaining effective cleaning performance. Sulfate is usually the main surfactant in cleaning systems, but it is not the only surfactant that can be used. It is usually combined with other secondary (or auxiliary) surfactants to achieve optimal performance. Auxiliary surfactants combined with anionic surfactants are often non-ionic or amphoteric. They are favored for their efficient foam and milder properties. At the same time, they also help to stabilize and improve the viscosity of the formula.
The use of sulfate cleaning agents is a personal choice, and if you are satisfied with their performance, there is no need to stop using them. If your hair is particularly fragile or your skin is prone to allergies, and you are not satisfied with their performance, you can choose not to use them. But the key is to admit that these ingredients are not innate for everyone"Not good",When designing cost-effective and efficient cleaning agents in the personal care industry in appropriate amounts, sulfate cleaning agents have significant efficacy.

Misconception 2- Sulfates are dangerous and toxic

The application of ingredients such as SLS and SLES in cosmetics has a long history, and the safety of these ingredients has been studied and explored multiple times. A headline news in the media once caught the attention of consumers, who began to question its safety. Although regulations regarding cosmetics are still evolving, at the time of writing this report, no research has clarified that these ingredients can affect human health in appropriate amounts.

For more information, please watch this video where Michelle from Lab Muffin Beauty Science discusses common false statements about SLES and its security.

Misunderstanding 3- Sulfate free cleaning products will not produce foam or have good cleaning effect

Sulfates are known for their ability to provide effective cleaning performance and excellent foaming ability. For consumers, this is an important indicator that such cleaning products, whether used for hair or skin, can work properly. Foaming is also important for the user experience, as it helps the detergent to easily spread on the surface of hair and skin.

However, people often mistakenly believe that the foam produced by such products is related to their cleaning performance, while in fact it is not related to the performance and quality of the formula. This poses a challenge for cosmetic formula designers - how to provide a formula that meets consumer expectations in terms of performance and ingredients used.

As I mentioned earlier, sulfates do not have a direct substitute, so a range of different ingredients must be used to meet consumer demands for the same performance and experience. In addition to auxiliary surfactants, non sulfate and anionic surfactants can also be used as substitutes. The best cleaning performance can be achieved by compounding surfactants, while making the surfactant system gentler and enhancing foaming performance, which helps optimize the performance of sulfate free formulations and improve user experience.

Misconception 4- Sulfate free shampoo is more suitable for dyed hair

For a long time, it has been believed that the use of sulfates in shampoo can cause hair to fade, so it is necessary to avoid using sulfates at all costs to ensure that hair color is maintained for a long time. However, this is not the case. Sulfate shampoo is usually not the only culprit causing hair fading. UV radiation and the use of styling tools can cause hair fading, but the main reason is actually the water used during hair washing.

So it is necessary to understand the process of dyeing hair. A high pH system is used to enhance the stratum corneum of hair, allowing dye molecules to penetrate into the cortex of hair fibers. After dyeing hair, use low pH post dyeing care agents to seal the stratum corneum. However, this is a destructive process as not all the stratum corneum will be smoothed out again, and using other combing methods will further damage the surface of the hair.

When we wash our hair with water, it can cause the cortex to expand and the stratum corneum to peel off. In this case, combined with the damaged area of the keratin layer on the surface of the hair, water can penetrate into the cortical layer. As the dye molecules dissolve in water and are washed away, the hair gradually fades.

Surfactants used as detergents in shampoo may play a role in the fading process, as during the washing process, surfactants not only remove dirt and oil, but also remove pigments. However, this phenomenon is not entirely related to sulfates or any specific surfactants.

Unfortunately, hair fading cannot be completely avoided, but the best way to maintain dyed hair for as long as possible is to protect the stratum corneum, repair damaged hair, and maintain the overall health of the hair. The use of hair conditioners, thermal protectants, and stratum corneum sealing products can help maintain a smooth, glossy hair surface that is not easily faded.

I hope this blog can provide you with assistance and learn more fresh information in our latest issue of the Smash Rumor series.